Five of the Best Prague Beer Gardens

Spending a sunny day in a Prague beer garden is a local institution – you can soak up the sun and some suds, while enjoying the lively atmosphere. The city has several large and popular beer gardens offering great views and good times to go with your beer and grilled sausages.

Hospůdka Na Hradbách

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This gem is known as the ‘hidden’ beer garden of Vysehrad fortress. The popular spot draws a younger crowd, especially at night, but its upbeat atmosphere is attractive to almost everyone. For a fantastic view and some great grilled food, this beer garden is definitely the place to be.

Vyšehrad – V pevnosti, Prague 2. Tram: 6, 7, 18, 24 – Ostrčilovo náměstí. Tel: +420 734 112 214. Hours: Mon-Fri 2pm-midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight. Smoke free area. 

Letna Park Beer Garden

 

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Part of scenic Letna Park, not far from the metronome, Letna Beer Garden is another very popular summer hangout offering rows of wooden picnic tables with unbeatable views over the Vltava River and the Old Town. There’s a hole-in-the-wall selling beer and coffee, and a stall offering kebabs and sausages.

Letenské Sady, Prague 7. Tram: 5, 8, 24 & 26 to Dlouhá třída then walk across the bridge and up the steps. No telephone. Hours: approximately noon-midnight. Smoking throughout.

Riegrovy Sady Park Beer Garden

This very large and popular beer garden set within a city park has several bars selling beer and cocktails, and a grill offering sausages and other snacks to hungry drinkers. It gets very busy when there’s a sporting event on, showing everything from Czech football matches to Wimbledon on a big screen. Avoid the adjoining Park Café restaurant. If you’re looking for a quieter spot, get your beer to go and sit on the grass. Riegrovy Sady Park also boasts another pub nearby with a smaller beer garden, rooftop terrace and barbecued snacks. To find it, walk past the large beer garden, turn left at the top of the hill and you’ll soon see it on the right. The hilltop park itself boasts great views over the city center towards Prague Castle.

Riegrovy Sady 28, Prague 2. Metro: Line A – Jiřího z Poděbrad. Tel: +420 608 911 536. Hours: Approximately noon-midnight. Smoking throughout. 

Sousedský Pivovar Bašta

 

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This down-to-earth, traditionally-decorated neighborhood pub brews its own highly-rated beer as well as offering a small selection of Belgian beers. A favorite with local beer enthusiasts, it is slightly out of the way from the city center, but not far from Zlý Časy.

Táborská 49, Prague 4. Tram: 6, 11, 13 & 18 to Náměstí Bratří Synků. Tel: +420 602 295 403. Hours: 11am-midnight. Non-smoking section.

Únětický Pivovar brewery

 

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Monks started brewing out here on Prague’s outskirts back in 1710. Now it’s home to a new microbrewey serving up unfiltered lagers, plus some delicious Czech pub classics that are perfect for enjoying under an umbrella in their new beer garden. There’s hiking trails and bike paths nearby, and a bus from Prague only takes about half an hour to arrive in this quaint village.

Rýznerova 19/5, 252 62 Únětice, Czech Republic. Tel: +420 602 206 235. Hours: Mon-Thurs 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-11pm, Sun 11am-9pm, Web: unetickypivovar.cz.

For more on where to drink (and eat) in Prague, download Glutton Guide Prague: The Hungry Traveler’s Guidebook.

Best Prague Al Fresco Bars

prague al fresco bars

It’s day-drinking time, and there’s no better way to enjoy one of Europe’s most beautiful cities than sitting outside, drink in hand. Here are our four favorite Prague al fresco bars, so grab a pint and find a patio.

Cloud 9

 

The rooftop bar of the Hilton offers everything you’d expect – great cocktails, rooftop views, plush sofas and DJs spinning tracks late into the night. In the summer there are temporary art exhibitions on the terrace, while in winter there’s an outdoor bar made of ice blocks. The prices are sky-high to match, but there are few better spots to start a special night out. Reservations essential.

Pobřežní 1, Hilton Prague Hotel, Prague 8. Metro Line B – Florenc. Tel: +420 224 842 999. Hours: Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. Non-smoking throughout indoors (smoking on terrace). Web: http://www.cloud9.cz/

Lokal Nad Stromovkou

 

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Lokal Dlouhá, a large, long tunnel of a modern beer hall, is known as much for its fuss-free, well-executed Czech food as for its tank Pilsner Urquell. Love or hate the minimalist interior design, it is a great place to meet friends for beers and snacks in the evening, when it is always lively, busy (reservations recommended) and sometimes noisy, despite there being no music.  Lokal Nad Stromovkou, located next to the vast Stromovka city park has high standards, plus a neighborhood feel and some outdoor seating in the warmer months.

Lokal Nad Stromovkou, Nad Královskou Oborou 31, Letna, Prague 7. Tram 1, 8, 12, 16, &25 to Letenské Náměstí. Tel: +420 220 912 319. Hours: Mon-Sat 11.30am-midnight, Sun 11.30am-11pm. Non-smoking section. Web: http://lokal-nadstromovkou.ambi.cz/cz/

Strahov Monastery

 

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Right by Prague castle, this is a popular city-center monastery pub and restaurant where you can drink monastic brews in historic surroundings.

Strahovské nádvoří 1, Prague 1. Tram: 22 to Pohořelec. Tel: +420 233 353 155. Hours: 11am-11pm. Non-smoking section. Web: http://www.strahovskyklaster.cz/

T-Anker 

T-Anker prides itself on its support of small breweries in the Czech Republic, but there are plenty of other reasons to enjoy this spot. Its 9 tap tower and wide selection of bottled beer is something to brag about. Enjoy a nice beer on the biggest terrace in Prague, while enjoying sweeping views of the city down below.

Restaurace Sluneční terasa T-Anker, náměstí Republiky 8 (OD Kotva – 5. patro), Praha 1 – Staré Město , 110 00. Metro:?. Tel:+420 722 445 474. Hours: 11am-11pm. Web: http://www.t-anker.cz/en/about/

Thirsty for more? Download Glutton Guide Prague: The Hungry Traveler’s Guidebook and start drinking (and eating) like a local.

The Best Al Fresco Restaurants in Prague

It’s finally summer, and that means one thing: patio dining season. Check out our seven favorite al fresco restaurants in Prague. Enjoy the terraces!

Creperie U Kajetana 

At other times of year, you can find trdelníky (traditional pastries) at some cafes and stalls in the Old Town and Lesser Quarter. One place that does them well is Creperie U Kajetana, a good place for a stop after visiting Prague Castle. Unlike at many cafes in this area, prices here are reasonable and service is usually friendly. Don’t sit outside on the teeny tiny front patio; walk through to the quiet little courtyard out back.

Nerudova 17, Prague 1. Metro: Line A – Malostranská. Tel: +420 773 011 031. Hours: 10am-8pm. Non-smoking throughout.

Hergetova Cihelna

Dinner time☺️? #hergetovacihelna #dinner #prague

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A table on their large, outdoor terrace is the perfect spot for gazing out over the river towards Charles Bridge and the Old Town while enjoying their signature Asian-fusion dishes. There are tables inside, too, but only a few have a good view over the river. The restaurant is in the same complex as the Franz Kafka museum and a famous sculpture by Czech “bad boy” artist David Černý, affectionately titled “Piss”. Hergetova Cihelna has similar river views to more famous nearby restaurant Kampa Park, and is part of the same restaurant group. Kampa Park, which has attracted celebrities like Bill and Hillary Clinton and Arnold Schwarzenegger, has become less popular with locals after hiking up the prices.

Cihelná 2b, Prague 1. Metro: Line A – Malostranská. Tel: +420 296 826 103. Hours: 11:30am-1am. Non-smoking throughout. Web: kampagroup.com/en/restaurants.

Las Adelitas 

Take a walk from the square along leafy Americka Street towards the park at Havlíčkovy sady and you’ll find this popular local hangout. Owned and run by a group of friends from Mexico, it serves up the most authentic traditional and contemporary Mexican food in the city, and has a friendly, lively atmosphere. Try the crunchy flautas (rolled taco) or the sopa Azteca (tortilla soup), which the owners are particularly proud of, and the mango margaritas – plus the outdoor terrace in summer. Reservations recommended for evenings or weekends.

Americká 8, Prague 2. Metro: Line A – Náměstí Míru. Tel: +420 222 542 031. Hours: Weekdays 11am-1am, Weekends noon-1am. Non-smoking throughout. Web: lasadelitas.cz.

Mood 

Known for its top-notch burgers, Mood delivers a dining experience that reflects its pop art decor. The most enticing aspect of this restaurant is the the decking out back facing into the trees of a nearby park providing a tranquil area, and the perfect place to spend a summer evening.

Konevova 28/29, Prague 130 00, Czech Republic. Metro:?? Tel: +420 222 517 615. Hours: 12-11 pm. Web: restaurantmood.cz.

Mlynec

Overlooking the Charles Bridge, Mlynec serves up more than just a fantastic view and great food. With floor-to-ceiling windows, the terrace sprawls all the way into the dining room, and there’s no better way to enjoy their live jazz night than with the breeze from the Vitava River blowing in your hair.

Novotného lávka 199/9, Staré Město, 110 00 Praha, Czech Republic. Metro: ?? Tel: +420 277 000 777. Hours: 12pm-3 pm; 5:30pm-10 pm. Web: mlynec.cz/menu-en.htm.

Sansho 

A firm local favorite, Sansho is owned and run by British chef and butcher Paul Day, who simply cooks with whatever high-quality ingredients are freshest that day as part of a six-course tasting menu. The culinary flair and relaxed atmosphere keep locals coming back for more – and the streetside dining spills out on the sidewalk come summer. The menu may be ever-changing, but you can expect to taste Southeast Asian, Czech, British and other international influences. Signature dishes include soft shell crab sliders, mackerel ceviche tacos and their famous sticky toffee pudding. Reservations essential.

Petrská 25, Prague 1. Metro: Line B – Florenc. Tel: +420 222 317 425. Hours: Tue-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 6-11pm, Sat 6-11pm. Non-smoking throughout. Web: sansho.cz.

Villa Richter 

Set among vineyards on the hill beneath Prague Castle, the atmosphere at this renovated villa is nothing short of magical. It is divided into three parts: an Italian restaurant Terra; a casual, outdoor summer terrace, serving wines grown right here in the castle vineyard; and a traditional Czech restaurant Piano Nobile. The latter is the most expensive (but very much worth it), serving high-quality versions of local specialties in a beautiful space, with views over the city below. It is a popular place for weddings, and it is easy to see why. Book ahead and ask for a table by the window.

Map. Staré zámecké schody 6, Prague 1. Metro: Line A – Malostranská. Tel: +420 702 205 108. Hours: 11am-11pm. Non-smoking throughout. Web: villarichter.cz.

Or if prefer picnicking (the original al fresco dining), here’s some handy tips:

Havlickovy Sady Park

 

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Known by locals as “Grebovka” park, this large but peaceful park is set in an upscale residential neighborhood. Not only are there plenty of shady spots where you can picnic on the grass, but this unusual park, once the estate of a wealthy family, is well worth exploring thoroughly. Seek out the grand chateau, children’s playpark, glass-sided cafe, unusual water features, and expanse of vineyards clinging to the steep hillside. There are also great views over the south of the city – you’ll spot Prague’s handful of tower blocks in the tiny business district, intentionally placed away from the Old Town by communist-era city planners.

If you’re planning a picnic, stock up at these local stores to round out your al fresco meal:

Javanka & Co 

 

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Just a a three minute walk from the park, this laid-back Indonesian bistro is a local treasure. For an introduction to Indonesian cuisine you can try one of the mixed plates, called Nasi Rames. The sweet turkey semur (stew) and fragrant beef rendang (spicy slow-cooked dish) are highly rated. Order at the counter and find a seat at the eclectic collection of tables. Make sure you leave some room for a slice of salted caramel apple pie – Javanka & Co is one of just a couple of places in Prague to sell delicious pies made by small but popular American baking company: The Prague Pie Hole.

Máchova 22, Prague 2. Metro: Line A – Náměstí Míru. Tel: +420 222 515 107. Hours: Weekdays 11am-9pm, Sun noon-8pm. Non-smoking throughout.

Sklizeno

 

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As well as stocking locally-produced treats like Jordi’s chocolate, Doubleshot coffee and naturally-made wines by Autentiste, Sklizeno (meaning ‘harvested’) has a small selection of locally-sourced fruit and vegetables, dairy, baked goods and a meat counter, making it perfect if you want to pick up everything for a picnic in one stop. They have several locations around Prague (and in other Czech cities), but the one in the Karlín district is especially popular with local foodies thanks to its bigger selection. It is also a good place to look for unusual types of flour and other baking ingredients. See their website for a full list of store locations.

Sokolovská 79, Prague 8-Karlín. Metro: Line B – Křižíkova. Tel: +420 212 241 362. Hours: Mon-Fri 8am-7.30pm, Sat 8.30am-1pm. Web: sklizeno.cz.

Looking for more delicious tips to help you win at eating in Prague? Download Glutton Guide Prague: The Hungry Traveler’s Guidebook.

Buenos Aires’ Best Merienda (Afternoon Tea)

Owing to a strong Southern European influence, many countries in Latin America partake in the custom of merienda, an afternoon snack that is essentially a fourth meal of the day. In BA, merienda lasts from between 5-7pm, when kids come home hungry from school and adults are fighting the afternoon slump at work when someone inevitably proposes, Vamos a tomar el té? (Shall we go have tea?). Below are Buenos Aires’ best merienda spots, and you can download Glutton Guide Buenos Aires for more info on these snack stops. 

In Bocca al Lupo


Don’t let your mediocre Italian skills scare you away from this neighborhood café. The translated name – “into the wolf’s mouth” – is actually an Italian idiom to wish someone good luck, akin to “break a leg”. The only luck you’ll need here is choosing what delicious dish to order. From the homemade pastas to the tasty tarts on display, the choice is not an easy one. The cheerful, airy décor and friendly staff make it the perfect low-key spot to spend time reading or relaxing in the enclosed patio. Depending on the time of day, opt for the merienda fixed menu, especially if it includes their freshly squeezed orange juice.

Las Violetas


Step back in time to a place where old school white-coated waiters have been serving meals, drinks and friendly advice to generations of families since 1884. Las Violetas is now a historical landmark and bar notable (historic bar) and one of Buenos Aires’ best merienda spots. This restaurant/pastry shop has undergone two renovations (in the 1920s and in 2001) though the Italian marble columns and French stained glass windows look as though they were installed yesterday. The architecture and atmosphere are delightfully over the top, as are the afternoon tea portions. Mountains of sandwiches, pastries, toasts and sweets are more than a “snack”. (Tea for two could easily satisfy four.) Linger awhile like the locals and admire the lavish décor from another era. And don’t forget to take home something sweet from the amply stocked and highly sugared confitería (pastry shop).

Ninina Bakery

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Since it opened in 2013, this popular spot has become a merienda fixture in Buenos Aires. If it is busy you may even snag the best seat in the house – right in the middle of the kitchen. Everything on the menu is prepared with care and that little touch of something extra. Savory items like the avocado toast and cold salads are healthy and delicious. But the real stars are the desserts, lined up like trophies along the long marble bar and ranging from the delicate to the downright sinful. The best deal by far though are the tea time menus, which offer generous combinations of sweet and savory items in addition to drinks.

Petit Colon


Bow-tied waiters whoosh past the dark wood paneling between café chairs. Welcome to one of BA’s bares notables (historic bars). Petit Colón, open since 1978, has a central downtown location that draws an interesting cross-section of society. During working hours lawyers come for a jolt of caffeine before heading back to their offices at the courts. But by night the scene transforms into well-clad theater-goers sharing a carafe of wine before a performance at Teatro Colón. Resist the temptation to succumb to “Paris of the South” clichés. And soak in the atmosphere while munching on a factura displayed on the long wooden bar. If hungry for something more, it is best to stick to the local classics like a lomito sandwich or ham & cheese tostados.

Prague’s Best Food Festivals

Prague Food Festival

In the warmer months, Prague comes alive with all kinds of festivals setting up in the city streets, squares and gardens. Most include some food stalls, and there are several Prague festivals dedicated to foodies. Big events like the Prague Food Festival or Czech Beer Festival are a lot of fun, but it is also worth seeking out smaller festivals for the local feel and lower prices. The Prague Coffee Fest is coming up this weekend, so get caffeinated!

 

OCTOBER: Prague Coffee Festival

 

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Prague’s baristas come together at this annual foodie festival. Immerse yourself in their world of cool, technical coffee creations. There’s plenty to learn and try for both professionals and amateurs here. You can find out how the city’s coolest cafes make the perfect flat white, meet local and international roasters, and enjoy coffee at its finest, all at a venue loved by local foodies: the Holešovice market hall. Runs October 22-23 in 2016!

Web: coffeefest.cz

March – November: Seasonal festivals

 

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The organizers of the farmers’ markets at Jiřiho z Podebrad square and the Náplavka riverbank also arrange regular seasonal food (and drink) festivals at the same locations, celebrating everything from wine to strawberries. See their website for upcoming events, which usually run between March and November.

Web: farmarsketrziste.cz

May: Prague Food Festival

 

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A three-day gourmet feast on the lawns of the Royal Garden at Prague Castle, this is the biggest foodie event in the city’s calendar. High-end restaurants from Prague and across the Czech Republic set up stalls in the picturesque gardens for Prague Food Festival. Expect tasting menus featuring experimental flavors as well as classic recipes. It is a great chance to try dishes from a few restaurants while visiting the 16th century renaissance gardens – a part of the castle grounds few visitors stumble upon. The festival takes place in May, and you can book tickets through their website or at the gates on the day.

Web: praguefoodfestival.cz

June: Mini-brewery festival

While Prague’s big beer festival is fun, the mini-brewery festival is the one local beer lovers really look forward to. It has a bigger and better selection of Czech beers and can work out cheaper. For an entry fee of around 350kc (US$14), you get a festival glass and unlimited tastings from around 70 Czech breweries. The festival gets busy, but has a great location on a terrace in Prague Castle’s royal garden, with views over the city’s red rooftops. It takes place in June – exact dates can be found on the festival website.

August: Burgerfest

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This food festival has had to move to bigger locations every year as it continues to attract more and more visitors. Prague just can’t seem to get enough of gourmet burgers. Die-hard burger fans won’t want to miss this event, where you can sample lots of mouth-watering creations from popular local restaurants all in one place. Get here early, or prepare to queue. It takes place every year in August. Check the website for dates and more details.

Web: burgerfest.cz

To find out more about Prague’s food festivals, download your copy of Glutton Guide Prague: The Hungry Traveler’s Guidebook.

How to Avoid Prague’s Tourist Traps in Old Town

Like all tourist areas, Prague Old Town features tourist traps that try to take advantage of visitors to the city. In the streets around Old Town Square, you’ll find there are plenty of tourist trap restaurants around that give poor value for money and, at worst, will try to overcharge or scam customers. Rest assured, though, there are still some restaurants that provide good food at a price that won’t break the bank.

Right near the Old Town, make sure not to miss the prime area of Gurmet Pasáž  (Gourmet Passage) where you can try a modern take on chlebicky (small open-faced sandwiches) or locally-sourced steak grilled fresh from the counter at eat-in butchers’ shop Naše Maso. Nearby you’ll also find one of the Prague’s two Michelin-starred restaurants, as well as some of the city’s best bars and nightlife. It’s a great place to avoid Prague’s tourist traps and get some really good grub. Read on for more details.

Here’s some of the best places to go near Old Town Square that are definitely not a member of Prague’s tourist traps:

Casa De Carli

 

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There’s no shortage of Italian restaurants in Prague’s center, but the unassuming Casa de Carli almost fades into the background among more garish (read: tourist trap) eateries in the Old Town. Despite that, it is well known among city residents as a great place to go for authentic Italian food. Classy and unpretentious, it is owned by Italian chef Matteo De Carli (who has also run restaurants in New York and Dubai) and his Czech wife Lenka, who runs the dining room. Food quality and service standards are a cut above other nearby Italian restaurants, and the menu is well thought-out. Popular dishes include the truffle-crusted Qualivo beef fillet, pappardelle with pecorino and homemade organic ice cream.

Vězeňská 5, Prague 1. Metro: Line A – Staroměstská. Tel: +420 224 816 688. Hours: 11am-11pm. Non-smoking throughout. Web: http://www.casadecarli.cz/ 

Kolkovna V Celnici

 

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Just a few minutes from Old Town Square, this pub is clean, modern and well set-up to cater to English-speakers, but it is also popular with the many locals who drop in after work. You won’t see a lot of tourists here. The kitchen specializes in sous vide cooking and well-presented Czech specialties at reasonable prices, and the bar takes very good care of their Pilsner Urquell.

V Celnici 4, Prague 1. Metro: Line B – Namesti Republiky. Tel: +420 224 212 240. Hours: 11am-midnight. Non-smoking section. Web: http://www.kolkovna.cz/ 

La Degustation Boheme Bourgeois

If you’re looking for a culinary adventure, you won’t want to miss La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise. One of Prague’s two Michelin-starred restaurants, it is known for combining technical precision and innovation to create modern interpretations of Czech and European cuisine. Choose from a six- or eleven-course degustation menu and add a wine pairing if you like (and who doesn’t?). The dishes on the tasting menu change with the seasons, and along with the menu you may also be offered tastes of the chef’s latest experimental creations (and asked for your honest opinion). Be aware you may receive some surprising flavor combinations, and some dishes containing raw egg or meat, so bring an open mind and be prepared to test your palate. Book ahead and ask for a table near the open kitchen to get the best view of the chefs at work. This sight, along with the charming service and spectacular presentation of dishes, adds up to an experience that’s both delicious and theatrical. To find the restaurant, walk down the side street running parallel to Lokal. The entrance is on Haštalská street.

Haštalská 18, Prague 1. Metro: Line B Náměstí Republiky. Tel: +420 222 311 234. Hours: 6pm-midnight. Non-smoking throughout. Web: http://www.ladegustation.cz/cz/

Lokal Dlouha

 

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With low prices for the area, great tank Pilsner Urquell and simple but high-quality Czech pub food, Lokal is a popular place to meet friends for dinner and a few beers at the beginning of a night out. A long, sparsely-decorated tunnel lined with tables, it has the slightly odd honor of being the longest pub in the city.

Dlouhá 33, Prague 1. Metro: Line B – Náměstí Republiky. Tel: +420 222 316 265. Hours: Weekdays 11am-1am, Sat noon-1am, Sun noon-11pm. Non-smoking throughout. Web: http://lokal-dlouha.ambi.cz/en/

Naše Maso

 

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Carnivores will feel right at home in Prague, but you’ll find some of the very best meats in town here at Naše Maso, meaning ‘our meat”, an artisanal butchery where they’ll also cook the food for you. Watch the butchers at work and try local specialties like Prague ham, sausages from Czech Přeštice pigs (a picture of the pig takes its place of pride on the wall) and the shop’s special meatloaf. Made with quality cuts and fresh herbs, it is unlike any meatloaf you’ve tasted before. This butcher’s shop even has a beer tap installed in the wall, so don’t forget to try a glass of the Antošův ležák pale lager with your food.

Dlouhá 39, Prague 1. Metro: Line B – Náměstí Republiky. Tel: +420 222 312 533. Hours: Mon-Sat 9am-9pm. Non-smoking throughout.

Pot-au-Feu

If you’re looking for intimate French dining in elegant surroundings, this small restaurant fits the bill. Hidden away on a quiet street, it is easy to miss as there’s no sign and the entrance is tucked away, but you’ll spot the large picture window framing a cozy dining room scene within. The small, seasonal menu features dishes made from fresh ingredients like goat’s cheese with eggplant caviar, and there’s always a posh version of the restaurant’s namesake dish (a French beef stew). The dining room is stacked with bottles of Burgundy wine, carefully decorated with striking designer ceiling lamps and artwork by Russian surrealist painter Victor Safonkin, said to be a regular customer. Reservations recommended.

Rybná 13, Prague 1. Metro: Line B – Náměstí Republiky. Tel: +420 739 654 884. Hours: Weekdays 11am-3pm & 6-10pm, Sat 6-11pm. Non-smoking throughout. Web: http://www.potaufeu.cz/

Sisters

Right next door to Naše Maso is Sisters, the place to try delicious modern takes on traditional Czech chlebicky (small open-faced sandwiches). These two shops flank the entrance of the Gurmet Pasáž. Explore further and you’ll find a handful of specialist food shops packed with imported wines, handmade chocolates and Italian delicacies.

Dlouhá 39, Prague 1. Metro: Line B – Náměstí Republiky. Tel: +420 775 991 975. Hours: Weekdays 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-2pm. Non-smoking throughout. Web: https://www.chlebicky-praha.cz/

Trznice Dlouha 14

You’ll smell the freshly-baked rye bread as soon as you arrive at this 2015 addition to Dlouhá. The name simply means “The Dlouhá 14 Market”, and the owners of this upscale, quality-focused food market say it is modeled on the modern urban markets of Munich, Frankfurt and Paris. It features several delis plus vendors specializing in everything from meat to vegetables. Sample the Czech pastries at the bakery, or visit the cozy wine cellar downstairs where you can choose from some 800 Czech and international bottles at surprisingly reasonable prices. Don’t miss Rybárna, the adjoining fishmonger and bistro serving up fresh bouillabaisse.

Dlouhá 14, Prague 1. Metro: Line A – Staromestská or Line B – Náměstí Republiky. Tel: +420 224 815 719. Hours: Mon-Fri 9am-9pm. Non-smoking throughout.

To find out more about Prague’s best restaurants and how to avoid tourist traps, download your copy of Glutton Guide Prague: The Hungry Traveler’s Guidebook.

Buenos Aires Best Happy Hours

Whether it’s relaxing after a hard day of work or chilling on the weekend, everybody deserves to treat themselves to nice happy hour. These Buenos Aires bars will welcome you for any occasion!

Antares

This local brewery has exploded in popularity and now has locations around the country, including three in BA at last count. They offer a range of styles from stout to porter to honey beer as well as fan favorite IPA. With two-for-one happy hour specials, tasty finger foods and a lively atmosphere, Antares is a great intro to the local craft beer scene. Seating is first come first serve, so get there early to beat the line that often stretches out the door. If you like what you taste, botellónes are also available to take home. They’ve got two for one pints every day before 8 pm, and on Sunday feature live music at select locations! 

PLM Location: Arévalo 2876. Subte: Line D – Ministro Carranza. Tel: +54 11 4772 2133. Hours: Mon-Fri 6pm-close, Sat & Sun 7pm-close.

PS Location: Armenia 1447. Subte: Line D – Scalabrini Ortíz. Tel: +54 11 4833 9611. Hours: Mon, Wed-Thurs & Sat-Sun 7pm-close, Tue & Fri 6pm-close.

ST Location: Bolívar 491. Subte: Line E – Belgrano. Tel: +54 11 4342 3836. Hours: 5pm-close. Web: www.cervezaantares.com.ar

Bar du Marché

On one of Palermo’s prettiest tree-lined blocks is this cozy café/wine bar whose mirrored walls, wicker chairs and wine list feel decidedly more parisien than porteño. With over 50 wines available by the glass, some of them imported, this is a great spot for a leisurely lunch, afternoon aperitif or wine and cheese flight paired by the sommelier. Behind the bar and up a flight of stairs is closed-door sushi bar Omakase, which shares certain dishes and a wine menu, so you won’t need to venture far for an amazing meal. As an added bonus, next door is Siete Spirits (Nicaragua 5942, www.sietespirits.com), a local gem of a wine shop specializing in New World wines, which holds Thursday tastings on their latest acquisitions.

Nicaragua 5946. Subte: Line D – Ministro Carranza. Tel: +54 11 4778 1050. Hours: Mon-Sat 9:30am-12am. Web: www.bardumarchepalermo.com

Gran Bar Danzón

By now a staple in the city, this bar/lounge/restaurant seems to do it all with plenty of panache, as evidenced by the crowds who turn out night after night. The wine list is impressive, the cocktails are creative and the food is tasty, with an emphasis on seafood and sushi. Arrive early to beat the crowd and take advantage of happy hour specials (which last for the first two hours after opening) because with so many options, you may rack up a hefty tab. Their happy hour happens daily with a wide array of wines to choose from!

Libertad 1161. Subte: Line C – San Martín. Tel: +54 11 4811 1108. Hours: Mon 7pm-2am, Tue 7pm-2:30am, Wed 7pm-3am, Thu 7pm-3:30am, Fri 7pm- 4am, Sat 8pm-4am, Sun 8pm-2am. Web: www.granbardanzon.com.ar

Leitmotiv

 

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Popular with trendy young locals, this craft cocktail bar emits a relaxed cool atmosphere on all three of its levels. In warmer weather, their rooftop terrace is the perfect spot to unwind, complete with its own bar and great music from a rotating roster of local DJs. Or sit at the downstairs bar and watch the bartenders make each concoction with precision and flair, turning orange peels into edible sculptures or torching sugar to caramelize it to maximum effect. Equal attention is given to the food in the kitchen, which offers creative small and large plates. On Thursdays and Fridays, happy hour runs till 9 pm and features Cynar Julep’s, Garibaldi’s and Aperol Spirtz’s at a deal of 2 for 80 pesos!

Cabrera 5700. Subte: Line B – Dorrego. Tel: +54 11 4777 0743. Hours: Wed 8pm- 2am, Thu 8pm-2:30am, Fri 8pm-4am, Sat 9pm-4am. Web: www.leitmotiv-ba.com.ar

NOLA

 

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Anyone craving Southern food need not look any further than NOLA, a Cajun gastro-pub with the best gumbo in town thanks to a New Orleans native running the kitchen. The ambiance is warm and casual, with indoor and outdoor seating and touches of the Big Easy throughout, like Café du Monde tins and Mardi Gras beads. Like any good American joint, they offer an early (for Argie standards) happy hour from 5-8pm – pints go for 50 pesos. New to NOLA? Go early and order the famed fried chicken + pint of Filidoro, a local craft beer made by the owners. Food portions are small though, so a real Yankee appetite might require two or three rounds.

Gorriti 4389. Subte: Line D – Scalabrini Ortiz. Tel: +54 11 6350 1704. Hours: Wed-Mon 5pm-midnight. Web: www.nolabuenosaires.com

Pony Line

 

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Designed as an homage to the sport of kings, this polo-themed lounge bar is casual yet sexy (read: lots of leather). With a large menu of creative house cocktails, mood lighting and plenty of pretty people watching, you won’t mind if your date shows up fashionably late. While you’re always given a gratis snack, if your appetite requires a larger bite, the food comes from one of the best kitchens in BA. Whether you’re staying upstairs at the Four Seasons or not, this is one hotel bar that should not be missed.

Posadas 1086/88. Tel: +54 11 4321-1200. Hours: Mon-Thu 11am-2am, Fri 11am-3am, Sat 6pm-3am, Sun 5pm-1am. Web: www.fourseasons.com/ buenosaires/dining/lounges/pony_line

 

For more info on the best places to eat and drink in BA, download your copy of Glutton Guide Buenos Aires: The Hungry Traveler’s Guidebook and start eating like a local.

How to Eat Vegetarian in Buenos Aires

Vegetarian options have traditionally been something of an afterthought in Argentine cuisine, like a hunk of pumpkin or pile of mashed potatoes that pale next to a steak. That has been changing in recent years thanks to the influence of global food trends and a greater concern for healthy eating. Vegetarians in Buenos Aires are no longer doomed to eat a lettuce and tomato salad or pick from the breadbasket. There are lots of great vegetarian (or veg-friendly) restaurants, organic food stores, open-air markets and smoothie bars, and even gluten-free eats for those with dietary concerns or cravings for healthier options.

Al-Zein

 

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Al-Zein follows in the tradition of great Middle Eastern restaurants: a family affair in which the food, prepared with love, is a source of pride for the hardworking owners. One block off the busy avenue of Las Cañitas, the casual spot opened in 2010 to bring the best Syrian-style shawarma to Buenos Aires. Every dish on the small menu is authentic and tasty (and many are veg-friendly). The indoor dining room is lined with images and decorations from the old country while outside regulars puff the afternoon away on a hookah.

Arce 488. Subte: Line D – Ministro Carranza. Tel: +54 114775 1402. Hours: Tue-Sun 12pm-midnight. Menu: Spanish only.

Buenos Aires Market 

 

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BA Market started in 2012 and is growing in popularity each year. The roving organic food market enlivens different city neighborhoods with more than 60 vendors of produce, baked goods, prepared foods and local products as well as cooking and nutrition classes. While there is no fixed calendar, it is always held on weekends, and they frequently update their Facebook page with dates and location. Make sure to get any shopping done before noon though because hungry crowds become overwhelming by lunchtime.

Web: www.facebook.com/buenosairesmarket

Buenos Aires Verde

 

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Part restaurant, part store, BA Verde is an organic and vegetarian food haven. All portions are extremely plentiful, and they offer special menus for every meal. They offer veggie wraps and salads, as well as more creative options tasty enough to satisfy a carnivorous soul. Vegans and raw food eaters have lots of choices here. Because of the range of healthy food being offered, the colorful and casual spot attracts diners from all walks of life. Expect fresh-off-the-boat Californians, Hare Krishnas and the Palermo office crowd. Service is quite slow though, so relax and sip on one of the house elixires de la vida. This genius wine-smoothie combo goes great with admiring the trippy photos of raw vegetables radiating energy.

Gorriti 5657. Subte: Line D – Palermo. Tel: +54 11 4775 9594. Hours: Mon-Sat 9:30am-12:30am. Menu: Spanish & English. Web: www.bsasverde.com

Full City Coffee House

Started by an Anglo-Colombian couple, Full City found the recipe for the perfect coffee house: comfy couches, tasty eats, reliable wifi and killer coffee. Beans are 100 percent sourced from Colombia (thanks to a family coffee connection there), and the menu has a variety of dishes. Try Colombian favorites like arepas (maize flatbreads with cheese, meat or other vegetarian fillings) and tropical fruit juices as well as other international eats. If you find yourself hanging around for a while, they also offer classes on the art of preparing coffee and the perfect espresso.

Thames 1535. Subte: Line B – Dorrego. Tel: +54 11 4833 6774. Hours: Tue- Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 11am-8pm, Sun 11am-6pm. Menu: Spanish & English. Web: www.facebook.com/fullcitycoffeehouse

Fukuro Noodle Bar

 

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Since 2013, Fukuro has filled a gap in the Buenos Aires food scene to the delight of Asian food lovers. Everything on the small, curated menu is made from scratch with love, down to the alkaline noodles and secret spicy sauce. Owners (and spouses) Vanessa and Matías Camozzi travelled the world specifically to learn from the best and create their own Taiwanese/Japanese fusion in Palermo. They offer dumplings, steamed buns and ramen (some vegetarian) as well as sake and local artisanal beer. The décor is as colorful as the food is tasty, complete with original stencil art by local graffiti artist Cabaio. It is also a great place for solo diners to eat in peace or sit at the bar and make new friends.

Costa Rica 5514. Subte: Line D – Palermo. Tel: +54 15 3290 0912. Hours: Tue-Thu 8pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 8pm-1am. Menu: Spanish & English. Web: www.fukuronoodlebar.com

Hierbabuena


Translated as “good herb”, this natural deli/restaurant is one of those rare dining gems that pleases vegetarians and carnivores alike. They offer a creative menu of salads, sandwiches and main dishes, as well as an impressive line-up of homemade smoothies and juices. Though it’s not a meatless restaurant, the care given to veggies often tempts meat lovers to put down the steak knife for a meal… and like it. Snag an outdoor table if the weather is nice, and you’ll be feeling good both inside and out.

Av. Caseros 454. Subte: Line C – Constitución. Tel: +54 11 4362 2542. Hours:Mon 9am-5pm, Tue-Sun 9am-midnight. Web: www.hierbabuena.com.ar

MEME Sopa & Roll

 

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Channeling a bit of that rebellious rock and roll spirit, this great little daytime joint goes against the grain in a land of meat and pasta. Perfect for a light (and vegetarian) lunch, the menu changes with the seasons and offers hot and cold soups and rolls, drawing on recipes from around the globe. Indecisive eaters can mix and match menu items or go for a three-soup tasting flight. Service is friendly and presentation is impeccable.

Gorriti 5881. Subte: Line D – Ministro Carranza. Tel: +54 11 4770 9234. Hours: Wed-Mon 11am-8pm. Menu: Spanish & English. Web: www.facebook.com/meme.resto

Mercadito Latino

Conveniently located across from the San Telmo Market, Mercadito Latino is the perfect place in Buenos Aires to pop in for a vegetarian-friendly snack after working up an appetite browsing the antique dealers. This unpretentious little spot offers Latin American food and drinks from Mexico to Brazil, and everywhere in between. The menu changes from time to time, but offerings always vary in terms of spice level, region of origin and ingredients. Try to snag one of the outdoor tables for a side of people watching with your margarita.

Carlos Calvo 488. Subte: Line C/E – Independencia. Tel: +54 15 2004 1056. Hours: Tue-Sun 10am-midnight. Menu: Spanish only. Web: www.facebook.com/mercaditol

Pain et Vin

 

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The lovechild of an Argento-Israeli couple, Pain et Vin is a simple yet soulful wine bar and bakery in Buenos Aires. Eleonora is a sommelier who curates an eclectic wall of wine, while Ohad prefers to remain in the back. He churns out homemade sourdough bread from the oven they built from scratch. For lunch or dinner, they have sandwiches, salads and snacks with many vegetarian options that perfectly accompany the vino. In addition to tasting wine by the glass or taking a bottle to go, they also frequently hold wine tastings from some of the best wineries around. If your Spanish is not up to snuff, don’t let that hold you back, as they will always accommodate an English-speaking audience. Check their Facebook page for upcoming events.

Gorriti 5132. Subte: Line D – Plaza Italia. Tel: +54 11 4832 5654. Hours: Tue-Sat 12-10pm, Sun 12-7pm. Web: www.facebook.com/pages/Pain-et-Vin

Sarkis

 

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If you are interested in eating with a capital E, look no further than Sarkis. This Armenian institution became a tour de force for those craving Middle Eastern and Caucasian flavors in Buenos Aires. The dining room is huge, yet simple, and the old school wait staff is no nonsense but for a good reason. Their objective is that you leave satisfied, and if you let them guide you, that outcome is assured. The quality of the food, ample menu and generous portions keeps locals and visitors alike coming back for more, as well as the affordable price tag and vegetarian-friendly menu. Get there early for dinner though because lines are already out the door by 9pm.

Thames 1101. Subte: Line B – Dorrego. Tel: +54 15 4772 4911. Hours: noon- 3pm & 8pm-1am. Menu: Spanish, English & Armenian.

Sunae Asian Cantina

 

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Since 2009, Asian-American chef Christina Sunae opened the door to her beautiful Colegiales home, where she serves creative, homemade Southeast Asian fare. No longer a closed door restaurant, diners can enjoy her spicy, flavor-packed dishes every Tuesday-Saturday night in Palermo. Sunae is now a must-eat for anyone craving gourmet Asian cuisine (with vegetarian options) in Buenos Aires. Her empire continues to grow since she released her book Sabores des Sudeste Asiático (Flavors of Southeast Asia) and started selling her special spicy sauce.

Humboldt 1626. Subte: Line D – Palermo. Tel: +54 11 4776 8122. Hours: Tue-Sat 8pm-close. Menu: Spanish & English. Web: www.sunaeasiancantina.com

For more info on the best places for vegetarians, carnivores and omnivores to eat and drink in BA, download your copy of Glutton Guide Buenos Aires: The Hungry Traveler’s Guidebook. Start eating like a local!

The Best Pizza in Buenos Aires

One of the three staples of porteño cuisine, pizza is something of a local obsession in Buenos Aires. Argies love to eat pizza seated or standing, at home or out, drunk or sober, at any time of day. There is pizza to please any palate in this city, but the classic Argentine-style pizza is a cheesy, doughy slice of steaming mozzarella (muza, for short). Here are the best pizzas in Buenos Aires:

Güerrin

 

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Avenida Corrientes, the location of the pizza walk, is ground zero for the best pizzerias in Buenos Aires, and Güerrin is the center of the street. Founded in 1932 by Italian immigrants, Güerrin is a bustling pizza parlor, where guests can peer into the oven as pizzas are churned out and quickly enjoy their pies either standing at the original bar or seated in the restaurant in the back. Original fixings, pizza boxes stacked to the ceiling and waiters in checkered uniforms yelling out orders create a charming kind of chaos emblematic of Buenos Aires.

Order: muza, fainá (flatbread made from garbanzo beans often put on top of pizza)

Corrientes 1368. Subte: Line D – 9 de Julio or Tribunales/Line B – C Pellegrini or Uruguay. Tel: +54 11 4371 8141. Hours: 8am-close. Menu: Spanish only. Web: www.pizzeriaguerrin.com

Siamo nel Forno

 

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If authentic Neapolitan pizza in Buenos Aires is what you’re craving, then get thee to Siamo nel Forno. They have a certified Neapolitan wood-burning oven carefully baking gourmet thin crust pies night after night – and it is one of the best pizzas in Buenos Aires. The best course of action is to go with good company and split everything family style, accompanied by a bottle of local wine, craft beer or an Aperol spritz.

Order: burrata, pizza margherita, pizza spinachi, pizza of the day

Costa Rica 5886. Subte: Line D – Ministro Carranza. Tel: +54 11 4775 0337. Hours: Tue-Sun 8pm-1am. Menu: Spanish, English & Italian. Web: www.facebook.com/pages/Siamo-Nel-Forno

For more info on the best places to eat and drink in BA and more of Buenos Aires’ best pizza joints, download your copy of Glutton Guide Buenos Aires: The Hungry Traveler’s Guidebook and start eating like a local.

Best Ñoquis (Gnocchi) in Buenos Aires

If it is the 29th of any month, you will find many Argentines eating ñoquis (gnocchi) smothered in tomato sauce, either at home or at one of the multitude of Italian restaurants. Like any longstanding tradition, there is debate about its origins, with one claim dating back to St. Pantaleon’s pilgrimage through Italy in the eighth century. The more common belief is that Italian immigrants made gnocchi when resources were stretched at the end of the month, since potatoes and flour are both inexpensive and filling. Superstitious folks place money under their plate for good luck in the coming month – some claim you have to carry the money with you and others that it must be donated for future prosperity. However, ñoqui isn’t just pasta. In local Buenos Aires slang it is also a derogatory term for public employees and/ or people who don’t go to work, but appear at the end of the month just in time to collect a paycheck.

Cucina Paradiso

Walking into Donato De Santis’ restaurants in Buenos Aires is like stepping into Italy – a warm atmosphere, respect for tradition and the best quality ingredients. His accessibility belies the fact that this Milan-born chef has cooked for jetsetters from LA to Miami and was once Gianni Versace’s personal chef in New York. Cucina Paradiso is a one-stop shop at any time of day for an Italian fix – seasonal homemade pastas (including the famous gnocchi) for lunch, two-for-one aperitivos at happy hour or an afternoon espresso and dessert – no reservations required. Its walls are also lined with imported Italian products to take home that are not always easy to find elsewhere in Buenos Aires.

Belgrano location: Castañeda 1873. Train: Line Belgrano Norte – Scalabrini Ortiz. Tel: +54 11 4780 2409. Hours: Mon-Sat 9am-midnight.

Palermo Hollywood location: Arévalo 1538. Subte: Line D – Ministro Carranza. Tel: +54 11 4770 9406. Hours: Mon-Tue 10am-10pm, Wed-Sat 10am-midnight. 

Menu: Spanish & Italian. Web: www.cucinaparadiso.com

Guido

Tucked in a quieter part of Palermo near the zoo is Guido, a dimly lit Italian restaurant with checkered tablecloths and opinionated wait staff that will joke about anything but the food. Homemade pastas, including the gnocchi, are served family style, perfect to order a few and share with good company, which locals have been doing for years as evidenced by the photos lining the walls. While waiting for a table, the large wooden bar is the perfect place to strike up a conversation with a regular while sipping on a Cinzano. Feel free to linger over dinner, dessert and drinks because Guido is open late even by Buenos Aires standards, making it a low-key yet entertaining night shared with friends old or new.

Cerviño 3943. Subte: Line D – Plaza Italia. Tel: +54 15 4802 1262. Hours: Tue-Sun 7pm-3am. Menu: Spanish & English. Web: www.guidorestaurant.com.ar

Il Ballo del Mattone

Part art gallery, part music venue, part eatery, this eclectic trattoria is unlike any other in town, serving Italian food in a lively yet intimate atmosphere. Lines are blurred between indoor and outdoor space, as well as public and private – with stylized family portraits hanging from the walls and family members passing through to their living quarters upstairs. The hip wait staff haul the menu to your table on an oversized blackboard, dodging sculptures, the live band and trays of homemade gnocchi along the way, in a cheery chaos emblematic of BA. In addition to this Il Ballo del Mattone Originale, named after a 1960s Rita Pavone song, the energetic artist owners also have two more restaurants nearby (Trastevere on Gorriti 5893 and Trinacria on Carranza 1601), are involved in local music and food festivals, teach Italian classes and even host film screenings and a radio show (Mattone Radio) five nights a week, expanding their Pequeña Italia (Little Italy) cultural empire all over town.

Gorriti 5737. Subte: Line B – Dorrego/Line D – Ministro Carranza. Tel: +54 15 4776 4247. Hours: Mon-Sat noon-4pm & 8pm-close, Sun 8pm-close. Menu: Spanish & Italian. Web: www.ilballodelmattone.com

In Bocca al Lupo

Don’t let your mediocre Italian skills scare you away from this neighborhood café because the name “into the wolf’s mouth” is actually an Italian idiom to wish someone good luck, akin to “break a leg”. The only luck you’ll need here is choosing what delicious dish to order; from the homemade pastas to the tasty tarts on display, the choice is not an easy one. Owner and Illy educator Enrico Aguggiaro personally ensures that espressos and cappuccinos are executed to perfection, just like in his native Italy. The cheerful, airy décor and friendly staff make it the perfect low-key spot to spend time reading or relaxing in the enclosed patio while trying a bowl of gnocchi. Depending on the time of day, opt for a fixed menu, especially if it includes their freshly squeezed orange juice. If you need even more reasons to stay, Bocca offers both Italian language and coffee education classes as well as a selection of Italian products for sale in front.

Map. Bonpland 1965. Subte: Line D – Ministro Carranza. Tel: +54 11 4774 3692. Hours: Tue-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am-8pm. Menu: Spanish, Italian & English. Web: www.facebook.com/inboccaallupocaffe

For more info on Buenos Aires’ best gnocchi and how to eat and drink like a local, download your copy of Glutton Guide Buenos Aires: The Hungry Traveler’s Guidebook. May your hungerlust never be sated!